June 22nd, 2010
To get here, wait until the wave starts to pick you up as you swim with the wave – try and stay out in front of the wave, btw. When it picks you up, go to the right or to the left down the line of the wave – try to get up into any tube if present, depending on wave shape or if possible depending on your ability. When your ride appears to be over, use your momentum to exit out and back under the wave – if you can. Typically, don’t go straight away over the falls and look out for the face-plants, they can be a real day / neck breaker.
Seriously though….
Atlantic City, New Jersey (AC) is one of my favorite beaches on the east coast. For starters, it is easy to get to and there are no fees for entering the beach. There is plenty of parking, plenty of room on the beach, and plenty of well-air conditioned and nice establishments to duck into every now-and-then. What’s more, there is no required and mandated swimming area, like some of the more ‘lame’ beach areas. [Lame is, in my opinion, when the lifeguards are telling swimmers exactly where they have to swim and/or do not allow swimmers to swim out as far as the break – the lifeguards are generally this way because there are typically so many poor swimmers that may not understand the power of the wave / surf – but like I said, the lifeguards aren’t quite so ‘dorky’ in AC.]
On this particular day, while the water was warm (approx. 68 degrees F) and the sun was hot with the occasional passing cloud, the surf was unfortunately somewhat flat. Consequently, there were no excessive side currents or rip tides either; so the conditions were great for the children and the less-than-proficient swimmers among us.
Nevertheless, I managed to catch a few good rights and a few good lefts. As I said, the shape was poor but it was somewhat of a shore break with the occasional nice shore bounder. Though, on the east coast, I don’t think most are accustomed to seeing swimmers [such as I] wearing fins, a rash guard, and webbed-gloves – like I enjoy wearing; but hey, its kinda’ what I’m used to. :)
Adam Trotter / AVT
PS. To give credit where credit is due, however, it is my west coast friend that taught me how to actually body surf. Thanks, Saint Mike. :)
